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Thread: Anyone want to install my pyrometer?

  1. #1
    SoCAPS Member fords4life's Avatar
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    Anyone want to install my pyrometer?

    Anyone in the SD area done their own pyrometer install? I'm worried about leaving metal in the exhaust and eating my turbo. Would a shop install just the thermocouple and I can do the rest? The boost guage, tranny temp sender, and guage install I'm ok with, just the thermocouple that makes me nervous. Any idea what a shop would charge me for just the thermocouple? I want to get my DP-Tuner ordered, but want the guages in first.
    RIP Muley 9-25-09
    You're ridin with the best now!


    1999 F-250 XLT Crew Cab Short Box

    4X4 7.3L Powerstroke
    Born On: 2-15-99

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    Tranny by JW, DP Tuner F5, ITP RR, Terminated, Walbro 392, 6637 Intake, On-Board Air, Full Kicker System, Kenwood Touchscreen DVD, Python 990, Much More To Come.....

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  2. #2
    SoCAPS Member Muley's Avatar
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    I did mine. Just ran the engine and started with a realy small bit and went up 1 size at a time. The metal peices are so small they blow on through. My muffler guy either uses a magnet and magnetized bits or grease on the bit then a magnet instead. I did this just before getting my new turbo so was not as concerned as you may be.

    I ran mine with must the clamp at first, but it leaked a bit after while so had my muffler guy weld it in when we were installing a new downpipe.

    Of course the pyro is mounted pre turbo. I put it in my uppipe but I think a lot of guys put them on the manifold.

    I can give you the number of a great perfoemance muffler guy that does just about everything exhaust and suspension related if ya want. Just let me know.
    1999.5 F250 PSD 4X4, The Mule
    1/8th ET 8.1 @ 82 MPH
    1/4 13.0 @ 101 MPH
    http://www.mcspadden.cc/themule.html

    1999 F350 DRW, Gold Leader, Homemade Tymar, 4" exhaust, DP Tuned


  3. #3
    SoCAPS Member superDF350's Avatar
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    you need to be installing the thermocouple in the manifold. You will have a temp diff. around 200-250 degrees from pre turbo to post turbo. Pre turbo is more accurate. There is an open spot by the oil filter were you can get a drill in there. Around the number 7 cylinder. Grease the drill bit up and drill slow. Wipe the bit off every so often and regrease.The shavings will stick to the grease. And the same with the tap. pack it with grease and they will stick.
    2003 F-350 7.3L PSD, 6 speed man, 4x4,c.c. long bed, 6" fabtech lift, 4"RBP exhaust, 4.30 gears, ATS housing/wicked wheel,DP Tuner,hi-idle,40,60,80,100,120, autometer boost/pyro, firestone airbags,

  4. #4
    SoCAPS Member dezzrats's Avatar
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    Talking

    No Grease! run the drill bit slow and start with a small size and work your way up to the spec size for the probe. Just let the dry metal chips fall out in your face (use eye protection). After you get the hole to the right size and get the threads cut, get one of those telescoping magnets and bend it to an angle and fit it up into the manifold in both directions.
    '97 Dodge 3500, Club Cab, 4x4, Dually, 5.9 Cummins 12V, SMOG EXEMPT, 4" turbo back, gauges, EGR Delete. Built Auto with billet twin disk converter, TransGo shift kit, HF clutches, HD Sprag, PML Pan, AFE stage 1, 100 fuel plate, AFC full forward. 3000 GSK.

    Yes, my last truck was an '06 Superduty, liked it, just too much money to own, SMOG, register, build, and maintain.

    Towing Queen for: '09 Attitude 33AKSG Fithwheel Toyhauler, FX package, all options and then some, axle oversprung conversion for 5" lift, 15K GVWR

  5. #5
    SoCAPS Member Muley's Avatar
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    I am not saying to do it this way but wanted to share my observations from when I did this. As I pointed out earlier I drilled mine with the engine running, small bit, working my way to the thermocoupler size hole. I did have the stock turbo then. When I pulled that turbo and inspected it there were no signs of any damage. No pits in the vanes, no damage you could see or feel. The bearings were just fine.

    Just an FYI not a recommendation. Worked for me but may not be the best way.
    1999.5 F250 PSD 4X4, The Mule
    1/8th ET 8.1 @ 82 MPH
    1/4 13.0 @ 101 MPH
    http://www.mcspadden.cc/themule.html

    1999 F350 DRW, Gold Leader, Homemade Tymar, 4" exhaust, DP Tuned


  6. #6
    SoCAPS Member sanger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dezzrats View Post
    No Grease! run the drill bit slow and start with a small size and work your way up to the spec size for the probe. Just let the dry metal chips fall out in your face (use eye protection). After you get the hole to the right size and get the threads cut, get one of those telescoping magnets and bend it to an angle and fit it up into the manifold in both directions.
    What he said, Then use a shop vac to the hole to finish the job should be good to go.

  7. #7
    SoCAPS Member dezzrats's Avatar
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    Yea, I forgot to metion the shop vac that helps to.
    '97 Dodge 3500, Club Cab, 4x4, Dually, 5.9 Cummins 12V, SMOG EXEMPT, 4" turbo back, gauges, EGR Delete. Built Auto with billet twin disk converter, TransGo shift kit, HF clutches, HD Sprag, PML Pan, AFE stage 1, 100 fuel plate, AFC full forward. 3000 GSK.

    Yes, my last truck was an '06 Superduty, liked it, just too much money to own, SMOG, register, build, and maintain.

    Towing Queen for: '09 Attitude 33AKSG Fithwheel Toyhauler, FX package, all options and then some, axle oversprung conversion for 5" lift, 15K GVWR

  8. #8
    SoCAPS Member Muley's Avatar
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    Magnatizing your drill bits helps as well.
    1999.5 F250 PSD 4X4, The Mule
    1/8th ET 8.1 @ 82 MPH
    1/4 13.0 @ 101 MPH
    http://www.mcspadden.cc/themule.html

    1999 F350 DRW, Gold Leader, Homemade Tymar, 4" exhaust, DP Tuned


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