So What are you guys doing for front brake upgrades? I have a straight axle 4x4. I want to go to a slotted rotor for sure, but I want to know what's available and what works well. Big rotors? Calipers? rear brakes? what's out there for an OBS truck?
So What are you guys doing for front brake upgrades? I have a straight axle 4x4. I want to go to a slotted rotor for sure, but I want to know what's available and what works well. Big rotors? Calipers? rear brakes? what's out there for an OBS truck?
1996 F350 Crew cab, Long Bed, SRW, 4x4, 153k mi.
Suspension: ORU shackle reverse kit with Deaver "Mini Kit" and single Bilsteins, custom track bar on heims, warn premium hubs, Stock height rear with Bilsteins and traction bars, BFG 315/70/17 at's on Chrome Forged American Racing Moab's
Engine Mods: aFe intake with Outerwear, Hypermax Intercooler, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, Triple gauge pod with Autometer's, superchips 60hp
Other: BD cool down Timer, Mag-Hytec Trans pan and rear diff cover, big trans cooler, HID driving lights in the bumper, Alpine, Boston, JL Stereo, Powerslot cryos, Hawk pads, Stainless lines
wish list: line-X, Air Bags, Leather interior, injectors, DP Tuner
I just ordered a set today. Slotted fronts from SP and Hawk pads. I got them from www.raceshopper.com and they had the best price I found.
MY TRUCKS YouTube Vids
1996 F350 XLT CREW CAB 4x4 5 speed,AB CODE CALI TRUCK, 4.10 LS rear, SMFW modified by Southbend Clutch, 4 inch straight pipe, IDM MOD BY ME, down pipe, boost and pyro gauges, personal open element air filter, ORU reverse shackle kit, Bilsteins, 305/75 Pro Comp A/T
In case we find ourselves starting to believe all the anti-American sentiment and negativity, we should remember England 's Prime Minister Tony Blair's words during a recent interview. When asked by one of his Parliament members why he believes so much in America , he said:
"A simple way to take measure of a country is to look at how many want in... And how many want out." Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you:
1. Jesus Christ
2. The American G. I.
One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.
:yay:I just odored my front and rear power slot rotors and hawk pads from fourwheel parts and i got the best deal ever.I did a lot and i mean a lot of searching and home work for the best rotor and pad combo and this is what every one is going with.I got the cryo power slot rotors which are made to military standards.I asked if they would meet a price i found online and he told me that they will get me in shipping and i told him its free shipping. So he went on line and found the site and lets just say i got all new brakes front and rear for under $750. . so well see how they work i'll be putting them on the X on Friday. I'll post back up after all done and let you know how they are from my point of view.:yay:This is one of the best write ups that i could find real fast.Power Slot Cryo Rotors by Frozen Rotors®
Frozen Rotors® has teamed up with Power Slot to develop Power Slot Cryo cryogenically treated brake rotors. Frozen Rotors® uses their same "Frozen Rotor" proprietary 60-hour cryogenic process to create a Power Slot rotor that has a distinct advantage in tensile strength, abrasive wear resistance and brake rotor longevity.
Along with the benefits of cryo-processing, Power Slot rotors are CNC machined to application specific tolerances that utilize a patent pending tapered-slot technology to create a vent for dust and pad gases while preserving rotor strength.
The slot designs of Power Slot rotors are angled to use the rotors' direction of rotation to enhance performance. This makes them side specific with left side (driver's) and right side (passenger's) rotors.
Brightly-plated Power Slot rotors also eliminate rusty rotor syndrome and enhance the look of custom wheels. Their military spec cadmium plating adds a high-tech appearance and corrosion resistance.
Power Slot rotors are designed to beat the challenges of high performance driving and severe duty brake demands, and represent one of the most cost-efficient performance brake upgrades offered in the market today.
About Frozen Rotors®
The name says it all: Frozen Rotors® freezes brake rotors...rock solid. Frozen Rotors uses a deep-cryogenic process that permanently changes the atomic structure of a brake rotor at 300 degrees below zero. We've got answers to any technical question you might have. But the real truth is that Power Slot Cryo Rotors by Frozen Rotors® will stop any vehicle cold! In the past six years, Frozen Rotors has developed an avid following of "Raving Fans" that will tell you (in their own words no less) that their brakes don't fade, don't warp and last two to four times longer. And any racer will tell you races are more likely to be won with the brake pedal rather than the accelerator.
Cryogenic processing also works on many other things from engine parts, drills and machine tools, to rifle barrels and golf clubs. For our customers, cold is a good thing... a very good thing.
All Power Slot Cryo Treated Rotors are Special Order Items that are treated after the order has been placed. Please allow 2 weeks for treament. NOTE - Cryo Rotors Can Not be Returned or Canceled Once Treated.
:yay:shama llama:yay: drive it like you stole it:yay:
2001 EXCURSION 7.3
John Wood trans. w/billet converter 6.0 trans. cooler trans pan,SCT:Xcalibrator 2 programmer,Garrett BB turbo,four gauge pillar,4"turbo back exhaust with a 6" tip,6" Pro-comp lift with dual front Pro-comp MX6 adjustable front and singles and air bags in rear,single steering stabilizer,Air compressor with a 5 gallon tank,quick air connect for air hose in fender well,Drilled and slotted rotors with steel braided brake lines,
GO BIG OR GO HOMEwww.frappr.com/deadrock69
Hey Ken. I put slotted rotors on my truck forever ago. I did not notice a huge amount of breaking performance in daily driving situation but when towing heavy and coming down long grades I noticed a big difference. Less heat from the slotted rotors.
Last year though both of my rotors needed to be replaced, they were old. I could not wait for the slotted units because of what was going on at that time so I ended up putting on regular ole stock type rotors. I guess my driving habits have changed over the years because coming down the grades to and from the desert with 15,000+ pounds this last season I completely forgot about the rotor situation.
My friend put a SD axle in the back of his truck with the disks. His truck stops very well.
1997 F-350 XLT 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed.
John Woods Transmission, Banks Powerpack, Custom Reverse Shakle Kit, National Springs, Fox Shocks, 38.5" Pro-Comp Xtreme All Terrains, 4:56 Gears with Detroit Lockers front and rear, Modified front driveshaft, Warn Premium Hubs, Electric Fuel Conversion.
320,000+ Miles
Thanks All for the tips!!! I was thinking powerslot cryo's and some kind of good pads. Deadrock-what did u do for rears? Pete-do you know any other info on that axle swap? that sounds like a good deal.... but could be lots of issues. lug pattern is different, width, driveshaft, emergency brake, axle perch width, brake porportioning. ?????? could be trouble for a daily driver.
1996 F350 Crew cab, Long Bed, SRW, 4x4, 153k mi.
Suspension: ORU shackle reverse kit with Deaver "Mini Kit" and single Bilsteins, custom track bar on heims, warn premium hubs, Stock height rear with Bilsteins and traction bars, BFG 315/70/17 at's on Chrome Forged American Racing Moab's
Engine Mods: aFe intake with Outerwear, Hypermax Intercooler, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, Triple gauge pod with Autometer's, superchips 60hp
Other: BD cool down Timer, Mag-Hytec Trans pan and rear diff cover, big trans cooler, HID driving lights in the bumper, Alpine, Boston, JL Stereo, Powerslot cryos, Hawk pads, Stainless lines
wish list: line-X, Air Bags, Leather interior, injectors, DP Tuner
The lug pattern was no big deal. Same wheel brand and model just different lug pattern. Sucks if he gets a flat though.
I don't remember him complaining about the width of the axle. Since he can be quite the whiner at times, I am assuming that worked out ok. Probably lucked out on that one.
This was right before I bought my truck and put the Nationals on it so when he was having his driveshaft modified I just figured it was because he lifted the truck. Since my driveshaft is not modified and my truck is higher I can assume the dimension on the SD axle is different in the pinion area. I don't remember if the driveshaft was shortened or lengthened. Or maybe it was to put a different end on the shaft because of the u-joint being different. I remember picking up the driveshaft for him at East County Diveshaft. Just did not ask what was changed. I know (now) that Napa has all different kinds of u-joints for applications where the bearing caps are different diameters. Like the Ford 9" in my Camaro. But I do not know if they have u-joints with standard and metric caps on the same joint.
If the driveshaft can be left alone and there is no standard/metric u-joint, it would be no big deal to turn down, or make, new caps.
The emergency brake worked fine. Still cable operated.
The axle perches were knocked off and repositioned inward. He used SD springs front and rear for it's softer ride since they are longer.
I had an extra adjustable propotioning valve I bought from Summit for my axle swap in the Camaro. He used it and it worked out really well.
The The Streetrod Manufacturing Co. Inc makes all the pieces to do a rear disk swap. Calipers are from donor cars or you can go to Kragen. Probably an easier way to go.
1997 F-350 XLT 4x4, Crew Cab, Long Bed.
John Woods Transmission, Banks Powerpack, Custom Reverse Shakle Kit, National Springs, Fox Shocks, 38.5" Pro-Comp Xtreme All Terrains, 4:56 Gears with Detroit Lockers front and rear, Modified front driveshaft, Warn Premium Hubs, Electric Fuel Conversion.
320,000+ Miles
:yay:I did the ps cryos front and rear with the hawk pads front and rear. I have also just changed the driver side front hub and solved my big problem with the clunking from the front end that i thought was a bal joint. It was a lot easyer then you would think to change. But i only have the front rotors and pads on i still need to do the rears. I can tell you one thing for sure and that is that i have a very big improvement in braking with just the front done. I can't wait to do the rears also. If you do the rotors and pads also get a set of steal bradded lines for all four it is well worth it.:yay:
:yay:shama llama:yay: drive it like you stole it:yay:
2001 EXCURSION 7.3
John Wood trans. w/billet converter 6.0 trans. cooler trans pan,SCT:Xcalibrator 2 programmer,Garrett BB turbo,four gauge pillar,4"turbo back exhaust with a 6" tip,6" Pro-comp lift with dual front Pro-comp MX6 adjustable front and singles and air bags in rear,single steering stabilizer,Air compressor with a 5 gallon tank,quick air connect for air hose in fender well,Drilled and slotted rotors with steel braided brake lines,
GO BIG OR GO HOMEwww.frappr.com/deadrock69
thanks for the info pete!!! I think if I were to do disc brakes in the rear, I would go with a kit rather than an axle swap. seems simpler. I will DEFINITELY be getting the stainless braided lines.
1996 F350 Crew cab, Long Bed, SRW, 4x4, 153k mi.
Suspension: ORU shackle reverse kit with Deaver "Mini Kit" and single Bilsteins, custom track bar on heims, warn premium hubs, Stock height rear with Bilsteins and traction bars, BFG 315/70/17 at's on Chrome Forged American Racing Moab's
Engine Mods: aFe intake with Outerwear, Hypermax Intercooler, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, Triple gauge pod with Autometer's, superchips 60hp
Other: BD cool down Timer, Mag-Hytec Trans pan and rear diff cover, big trans cooler, HID driving lights in the bumper, Alpine, Boston, JL Stereo, Powerslot cryos, Hawk pads, Stainless lines
wish list: line-X, Air Bags, Leather interior, injectors, DP Tuner
Just looked at the setup for the rear brakes on that website... that looks like it would be pretty trick!!
1996 F350 Crew cab, Long Bed, SRW, 4x4, 153k mi.
Suspension: ORU shackle reverse kit with Deaver "Mini Kit" and single Bilsteins, custom track bar on heims, warn premium hubs, Stock height rear with Bilsteins and traction bars, BFG 315/70/17 at's on Chrome Forged American Racing Moab's
Engine Mods: aFe intake with Outerwear, Hypermax Intercooler, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, Triple gauge pod with Autometer's, superchips 60hp
Other: BD cool down Timer, Mag-Hytec Trans pan and rear diff cover, big trans cooler, HID driving lights in the bumper, Alpine, Boston, JL Stereo, Powerslot cryos, Hawk pads, Stainless lines
wish list: line-X, Air Bags, Leather interior, injectors, DP Tuner
Talked to the guy about this rear disc brake conversion... says it's night and day difference. He spent about a half an hour talking 2 me about it. REally seems 2 believe in his product. I think I am going to order it... says its just under $800 delivered 2 my door, complete. Just need another side job or 2...
1996 F350 Crew cab, Long Bed, SRW, 4x4, 153k mi.
Suspension: ORU shackle reverse kit with Deaver "Mini Kit" and single Bilsteins, custom track bar on heims, warn premium hubs, Stock height rear with Bilsteins and traction bars, BFG 315/70/17 at's on Chrome Forged American Racing Moab's
Engine Mods: aFe intake with Outerwear, Hypermax Intercooler, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, Triple gauge pod with Autometer's, superchips 60hp
Other: BD cool down Timer, Mag-Hytec Trans pan and rear diff cover, big trans cooler, HID driving lights in the bumper, Alpine, Boston, JL Stereo, Powerslot cryos, Hawk pads, Stainless lines
wish list: line-X, Air Bags, Leather interior, injectors, DP Tuner
When you do your fronts make sure you grease your guide pins well, then when you think you have greased them enough go grease them again. Then after you lose sleep at night wondering if you have enough grease and of course the right type of grease get up the next morning and grease them again. :banghead:
7.3l '03, 250, CC, 4x4. 203* Tstat. DieselSite Coolant Filter. HX Line. Magnefine Tranny Filter
15w-40 Amsoil oil w/single bypass filter. ZooDad. DP-Tuner 80hp Ecno PCM. 4 guage pod ISSPRO gauges. Napa BTM.
BFG A/T 285/75 R16. Power Slot Rotors w/ Hawk Pads Bilstein Shocks, PML Rear Diff Cover
Sirius Satellite, JL Audio aftermarket speakers, 500w 5 channel amp, 2-10s
"The man who does not read good books has no advantage over the man who can't read them."
ok... got the front stuff delivered today. Cryos, Hawks, stainless lines.The Cryo's look great! But I'm a little confused because the rotors look like they slide on over the lugs. It's been a while since I did the front brakes on this truck. For some reason I thought that the hub was one piece with the rotor. Does anyone know? maybe I am just confused.
Raging, thanks for the pointer. What kind of grease is the right kind?
1996 F350 Crew cab, Long Bed, SRW, 4x4, 153k mi.
Suspension: ORU shackle reverse kit with Deaver "Mini Kit" and single Bilsteins, custom track bar on heims, warn premium hubs, Stock height rear with Bilsteins and traction bars, BFG 315/70/17 at's on Chrome Forged American Racing Moab's
Engine Mods: aFe intake with Outerwear, Hypermax Intercooler, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, Triple gauge pod with Autometer's, superchips 60hp
Other: BD cool down Timer, Mag-Hytec Trans pan and rear diff cover, big trans cooler, HID driving lights in the bumper, Alpine, Boston, JL Stereo, Powerslot cryos, Hawk pads, Stainless lines
wish list: line-X, Air Bags, Leather interior, injectors, DP Tuner
you are correct, the rotors do slip over the lugs. This is why it so important to torque your lugnuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque-sequentially, your wheel holds the rotors in place. I cant remember the type of grease but call any dealership and they can steer you to the right stuff. Also take a good hard look at your calipers, if you think for any reason you need new ones, then you probably do. Yes it is more money but if they are originals from 96 and you got all new rotors, pads and lines it would be worth while investment for new calipers as well. IMHOOriginally Posted by kenc17
Cheers
7.3l '03, 250, CC, 4x4. 203* Tstat. DieselSite Coolant Filter. HX Line. Magnefine Tranny Filter
15w-40 Amsoil oil w/single bypass filter. ZooDad. DP-Tuner 80hp Ecno PCM. 4 guage pod ISSPRO gauges. Napa BTM.
BFG A/T 285/75 R16. Power Slot Rotors w/ Hawk Pads Bilstein Shocks, PML Rear Diff Cover
Sirius Satellite, JL Audio aftermarket speakers, 500w 5 channel amp, 2-10s
"The man who does not read good books has no advantage over the man who can't read them."
Just use anti seize on the bolts and on the back of the pads where the pistons make contact.
MY TRUCKS YouTube Vids
1996 F350 XLT CREW CAB 4x4 5 speed,AB CODE CALI TRUCK, 4.10 LS rear, SMFW modified by Southbend Clutch, 4 inch straight pipe, IDM MOD BY ME, down pipe, boost and pyro gauges, personal open element air filter, ORU reverse shackle kit, Bilsteins, 305/75 Pro Comp A/T
In case we find ourselves starting to believe all the anti-American sentiment and negativity, we should remember England 's Prime Minister Tony Blair's words during a recent interview. When asked by one of his Parliament members why he believes so much in America , he said:
"A simple way to take measure of a country is to look at how many want in... And how many want out." Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you:
1. Jesus Christ
2. The American G. I.
One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.
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