Benefits of high idle mod

[Bio-Daddy]

What does this do for a 7.3 diesel, I,m seeing this on many trucks even in the magazines and was wondering what the benefit is. Is it expensive or difficult to install on my own? who makes this kit, is it adjustable or just a higher idle, how does it affect the power steering? when I step on the brakes at an idle it is neerly impossible to turn the wheel to connect trailers etc would this help? Any info is appreciated.

[hotstik]

High Idle is a program that is available when you purchase a quality chip like those available from DP-Tuner. DP-Tuner chips are available from John Wood as well as directly from DP. High Idle can help with warm up, cool down, and prevents wet-stacking.

Ford also sells an Auxillary Idle Control unit that you can use to manually set your idle rpm. However, I think the DP chip is a better deal when you add up the cost of everything.

Unfortunately, High Idle will not help the sad joke that is our steering system. The reason you are having issues is that the brakes and the power steering are not designed to be used simultaneously. Yep! Really! Both the brakes and the steering get their power assist from the same hydroboost unit. Apparently there just isn't enough beef for both.

Solutions for this problem include:

1.) Living with it and remembering not to use both simultaneously.

2.) Having your hydrobooster ported.

3.) Replacing your power steering pump with something adequate enough to steer more than a Honda Civic.

4.) Replace your entire steering system and add hydraulic ram assist. PSC Motorsports makes a great kit - this is the route I went.

Actually, without the ram installed on my PSC kit I could turn my 35" BFG's no problem with the brakes on while at idle.

[LiftedBlackHD]

I don't know about the 7.3, but on my 04 all I had to do was buy a $2 toggle switch, a couple feet of wire and a crimper. Then you simply connect two wires (that are already provided under your dash) to the switch. Turn the switch on and the engine idles up to 1200 rpm.

I like to use it to warm the truck up for a minute or two when cold before leaving work and immedialtey having to mash the go-pedal to get onto highway 67.

[hotstik]

I don't know about the 7.3, but on my 04 all I had to do was buy a $2 toggle switch, a couple feet of wire and a crimper. Then you simply connect two wires (that are already provided under your dash) to the switch. Turn the switch on and the engine idles up to 1200 rpm.

Yep, it's that simple on the 6.0L. The 7.3L is a different deal.

[LiftedBlackHD]

Yep, it's that simple on the 6.0L. The 7.3L is a different deal.

Wow thats the first time I've heard "simple" and "6.0" used in the same sentence...

[weweld]

Where can I find that high idle mod for the 6.0 ??

[LiftedBlackHD]

Where can I find that high idle mod for the 6.0 ??

http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/Other/High..._idle_mod.html

[weweld]

Thanks , I have the 7.3 body builder books but no 6.0 books

[Samuel1941]

Here are some instructions I copied a while ago:

Ok, this may be a bit complicated, but pay attention - you can do this. Once completed, one UpFitter switch will raise the idle to 1200 rpm (6.0L).

Project Cost: $47,560 (including truck)
Project Time: 4-6 weeks (includes truck ordering, building, & delivery time)

You will need the following:
1ea - 2005 Ford Truck
2ea - red butt connectors (or solder & tape)
1ea - available UpFitter switch (although any 12v switched source will do)
1ea - access to this forum
1ea - crimping tool
1ea - long nose pliers
6" - stranded hook-up wire (14-16 ga)
11 mm - socket
1ea - ratchet for socket
1ea - ability to follow directions (with pictures)

Optional:
1ea - garage large enough to enclose the truck (especially when raining)
1 to 6 - 12 oz refreshments
1 - Ford Tough tatoo
1ea - Electrical Engineering Degree
1pr - non-conductive footwear

Directions:
Remove all rings, watches, & bracelets (a must when doing electronics)
Remove the drivers side access panel (below the steering wheel)
Using the 11mm socket & ratchet, remove the 4 bolts which hold the fuse panel. Gently, pull the fuse box through the opening and leave it hang.
Look for the UpFitter wire bundle as noted in this photo:
Choose which switch you want to use. I used Aux-4 as it is one of the 10 amp circuits and only a signal voltage is required. Here is a list of wires:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]

Pull the black end off the chosen wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Crimp one end of one butt connector to this wire.
Prepare the 6" wire by stripping 1/4" of the insulation off both ends.
Crimp one end of the 6" wire to the open end of the butt connector used above.
Crimp another butt connector to the other end of the 6" wire.
Locate the top of the parking brake pedal (approximately 6" below the AUX wires).
Locate the SEIC/CASC wire bundle (about 12 wires with black ends) as noted in this photo:
Locate the solid ORANGE wire. There are many orange wires in this bundle, but most have a color tracer. You must use the SOLID orange wire.
Pull the black end off the SOLID ORANGE wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Insert the SOLID ORANGE wire into the open end of the butt connector attached to the 6" hookup wire.
This completes the electrical portion of this project. You need to replace the fuse box and access cover.

Testing
All the following are required to enable high idle:
Parking brake applied.
Foot off of service brake.
Vehicle in PARK (automatic trans.)
Foot off of clutch (manual trans.)
Foot off of accelerator pedal
Vehicle speed is 0 mph (stationary)
Brake lights functional
Engine at a stable base idle speed

Start your engine! Flip the UpFitter switch. The engine will idle up to 1200 rpm. If any of the required items changes state, the engine will go to its normal idle speed. If the item state is changed back to the required state, the idle will return to 1200 within 3 seconds.
There are many options available (higher rpm, gas engine information, E-series, etc) and all are noted in this document I noted in my first post in this thread (thanks Y-Guy).
Happy Hi-Idling!

I haven't done this, so I can't verify if it works.........

[Samuel1941]

And, here's an other write up:

This is the easy step-by-step instructions to set up your 05 or 06 SuperDuty to have a high idle option. This is for diesel trucks with the factory auxiliary upfitter switches. This procedure replaces the need in the older trucks to buy an AIC (Auxiliary Idle Control) module from Ford.

Refer here for pictures:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...bb_pdf/160.pdf

Tools needed:
Ratchet with 10mm socket
wire stripper
crimper

Parts:
one butt connecter for 18ga(?) wire

How to do it:
- pull the full panel cover off. It's the big panel just below the steering wheel. The top just pulls out from the dash and then swings down to let the bottom catches come free.
- Remove the 4 bolts (10 mm heads) that hold the fuse panel in place. Pull it out and let it hang down.
- find the upfitter switch wire you want to use (see picture for location).
- find the SEIC or BCP wire you want to use (same picture).
- strip the end of each wire 1/4" and crimp the butt connect on them to connect them together.
- put the fuse panel back in place and reinstall the bolts.
- snap the fuse cover back in place.

SEIC or BCP wire?

You can hook the switch to either of these wires to achieve high idle. However, they each have slightly different behaviors. If you're doing this mod to help keep the AC cold or the heater hot, or keep the revs up when jumpstarting somebody, then you probably want to use the BCP (Battery Charge Protect) wire. If you're doing this mod to use the PTO (Power Take-Off on your tranny), then you probably want to use the SEIC (Stationary Elevated Idle Control) wire.

If you want to hook up to the BCP wire, find the purple wire with the light green stripe in the bundle just near the top of the emergency brake pedal. Note: don't be fooled into using the light green wire the the purple stripe. That's the output wire for a BCP indicator lamp.
If you want to hook up to the PTO wire, find the solid orange wire in that same bundle (near the e-brake).

Differences in behavior:

BCP
- will automatically vary RPMS from 1200 up to 2400 to maintain battery charge
- does not lock the torque converter
- has an additional wire that is an output that can be used to turn on an indicator lamp to show that BCP is active. I.e. if you want to install an LED in your dash to tell you BCP is on. Since the upfitter switch has a light on the end of this, I don't see much point in this (if you're using a factory upfitter switch).

SEIC
- does not automatically vary the RPMs. Sets idle at 1200 (unless you take advantage of the additional control wire).
- has an additional control wire that you can hook a resistor to to vary the RPMs. You could install a variable potentiometer (i.e. a knob on your dash) to let you dial in whatever RPMs you want, when SEIC is active - from 1200 to 2400 (I think that's the max).
- locks the torque converter.

Which Upfitter Wire To Use:
There is a bundle of 4 wires. They are just behind the top of the fuse panel. They're all orange, with different colored stripes. They are:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]

The high idle circuit needs minimal current, so you may as well use Aux-3 or Aux-4 and save the high current switches for something that needs it.

Final Notes:
By far, the hardest part of this (for me, anyway), is actually stripping the wires and crimping on the butt connector. There just ain't that much room in there to fit hands and tools in there. It would probably be a lot easier if you used a short piece of additional wire and two butt connectors, as the two stock wires don't have a lot of extra length between them to reach each other. Nevertheless, I managed to do it with just the stock wires and one butt connector, so I'm sure you can, too.

Once you have this done, to actually try it out, you have to do this:
- start the engine.
- set the emergency brake.
- have the tranny in Park.
- do not have your foot on the foot brake.
- flip the upfitter switch to the up (On) position.

Once all the conditions are met, the idle will go right up to about 1200. If you step on the foot brake, release the e-brake, or put the truck in gear, BCP (or SEIC) will disengage and the RPMs will drop back down to 600'ish. If you undo/redo the correct conditions (i.e. take your foot back off the brake, etc.) the RPMs will go back up with a few seconds.

[weweld]

Thanks John :yay:

[glamis_dave]

well there is high idle and then there is high idle....my dp chip ....high idle is 1500 rpm's...so the ac works good on a hot day .....wife and kids happy in cool air.....me sweating,,cursing,,bleeding under or behind same truck on same hot day fixing something....well at least i have that same cool air to look forward to when whatever it is gets fixed.....lol david