Cylinder 4 location?

[Powerstroken090]

I feel like I should know this so please get your laugh button ready.
I have an error code that indicates cylinder 4 glow plug. In order to begin my troubleshooting I need to know which cylinder is #4. If standing in front of the truck (scratching my head of course), where is cylinder #1?
Also, reading on andother site, I think I read that the glow plugs are under the valve covers.:jawdrop: This true? Thanks in advance!

[ryanPSD]

Laugh button pressed.

They are 1357 down the passenger side, 2468 down the driver's side (front to back).

Yep glow plugs are under the valve covers.

[hotstik]

The even numbered cylinders are on the drivers side and the odd are on the passenger side. So, on the drivers side from front to back you have 2, 4, 6, and finally 8.

The glow plugs are under the valve covers. Each cylinder has its own glow plug which is located to the immediate upper right of each injector.

If you are changing glow plugs, you might as well change them all as long as you're going to the trouble of taking the valve covers off. Also, be sure to only use Motorcraft ZD-11 glow plugs made by Beru. The other brands seem to have issues.

[Powerstroken090]

Awsome! You guys are great! I guess I know what I'm doing this weekend. Thank you!:waytogo:

[hotstik]

HaHa! Ryan beat me! :slap:

Autozone is a good source for the plugs - they should cost like $9.95 each. Also, be sure to use a 10mm deep socket and torque the plugs to 168 inlbs. Valve cover bolts should be torqued to 96 inlbs.

At least your GP issue is on the drivers side. Have Fun!

[ryanPSD]

:slap: Yep I saw!


Yeah, like hotstik said, you do NOT want autolite glowplugs! Motorcraft/Beru only! :)

[Powerstroken090]

Ryan, hotstik, Thanks much for the valuble input! Let the wrenching begin:yay:

[SuperDutyDave]

At 80535 miles, on 06/19/06, my engine light came on. The code was checked and the indication on the code scanner showed the #4 glow plug is possibly failing. 1. How bad is it to keep driving the truck? 2. How terrible is it to replace all the glow plugs? 3. What special tools are required?
Thanks for the info,
Dave

[superDF350]

Im haveing the same problem. I keep throwing a P0671, #1 glow plug failure. John woods said it is very hard to burn up a glow plug in a 7.3L
He said it is usually the wiring harnass that the plugs plug into. They sometimes can come loose in the valve cover.

[hotstik]

Pulling the valve covers and changing the glow plugs is no big deal. As far as tools go, all you really need are 10mm, 11mm, and 13mm sockets, a ratchet with appropriate extensions, and a decent torque wrench. A topside creeper is also a nice-to-have since you're working over the top of the engine.

Like said above, be sure to check all your electrical connections FIRST. You might end up pulling a valve cover to find an unplugged or melted electrical connection.

[hotstik]

Here's a photo of a 99.5 and up 7.3L valve cover gasket with the uvc harness attached. The round plugs go to the glow plugs and the plugs with the retainer clips go to the injectors.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...73017518PUmYCN

[SuperDutyDave]

Hey Anthony:
Thanks for the call the other day. I went to Kragen and all they had were Autolite Glow Plugs. I will go to Autozone next. I found the Topside Creeper and I will order that next.

With regards to the gasket pic you posted on the site, the glow plug connector has only one female-type input while the injector has two female-type inputs right?

[SuperDutyDave]

I know this will get a few laffs: The torque specs were listed as 168in-lbs for the glow plugs and I think 98in-lbs for the valve covers. Do you divide each number by 12 to get torque in ft-lbs? The torque wrench I looked at yesterday only had ft-lbs. I will need to run by Sears I guess.

Thanks again to all,
Dave

[hotstik]

Dave,

Yes, the single female type plug interfaces with the top of the glow plug. There is a chance that your glow plug issue is simply that one of these plugs has popped off. There's nothing (no retainer clip, etc) to make sure they stay on. Also, check where all the wires meet the gasket, this is where the wiring typically melts due to a short.

As far as torque wrenches go, avoid the cheap ones - especially if you plan on doing a lot more maintenance on your truck. I figure that a torque wrench is a lifetime tool, so one that works lousy just doesn't make sense. The Sears ones are decent, as are the Husky brand that are sold by Home Depot (both brands carry a lifetime warranty). MatCo, SnapOn, and Mac also make good ones - of course (pricey!).

Torque Specs: Your are correct. You just divide by twelve to go from inlbs to ftlbs. Here is a link that can answer all your conversion questions. I've found it very handy.

http://www.onlineconversion.com/

[Samuel1941]

Torque wrenches......

both brands carry a lifetime warranty

Sears Craftsman torque wrenches do not have a lifetime warranty!!!
Sears only gives a one year on their Craftsman wrench!!
I know, I've got one, the adjustment for torque is broken and Sears won't do anything for me.

I have since bought Husky, the Home Depot brand, and in my opinion it's a better made tool and does carry a lifetime warranty. And, costs a little less than the Craftsman!!!