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Thread: How To: 7.3L Powerstroke Injector Removal and Installation

  1. #1
    SoCAPS Member hotstik's Avatar
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    How To: 7.3L Powerstroke Injector Removal and Installation

    The following article outlines the general procedure for removing and replacing the fuel injectors in the 7.3L Powerstroke engine. All information is based on procedural advice and knowledge passed on by Ryan Bean of Bean’s Diesel Performance. In addition, I have incorporated some helpful hints passed on by our own world famous Chef Gene, and some personal observations of my own.

    Tools You Will Need:

    - Inch-Pound Torque Wrench
    - Small Pry-Bar
    - Rubber Mallet
    - Blue Shop Towels
    - 13mm, 11mm, 10mm (deep), and 8mm sockets
    - 24mm socket on a breaker bar
    - Phillips Screw Driver

    * Please Note that this procedure does not require the draining of either the crankcase or the HPOP reservoir. In general, if it’s not metioned in the instructions here, you don’t have to do it!

    1.) Remove plastic engine cover, air filter assembly, turbo intake hose, CCV assembly, Intercooler Tubes, and unplug main wiring harness (10mm bolt)

    2.) Start with the driver’s side (especially if you haven’t done this before) since there is significantly more room to work on this side than on the passenger side. In my opinion, it is best to finish the install on the driver’s side before tackling the passenger side. So, begin by removing the driver’s side valve cover (13mm bolts).

    3.) Valve Cover Gasket Removal: Unplug the injectors by flipping down the metal clips and gently pull the plugs. Then unplug the Glow Plugs by gently pulling up on the wire plug. With everything unplugged, carefully remove the gasket being careful not to catch any wires on the injectors. This gasket will be reused.

    4.) Oil Spout Removal: Since you will be prying on the injectors, it’s a good idea to remove the oil spouts now. Using a 5mm allen wrench, remove the oil spout from each injector. These will go on your new injectors, so don’t lose them.

    5.) Using an 8mm socket remove the lower injector retaining bolt from each injector. The upper bolt should not be removed, as the injector collar will simply slide off the upper bolt.

    6.) Start at the Back: Start with the rear most injector and work forward. This is important as the angle of the engine will allow for the majority of fuel and oil to drain into the rear cylinder. Using a small prybar apply pressure between the injector collar and the top of the head. It will take a moderate amount of pressure to get the injector moving. When the rear injector comes free, carefully remove it. At this point you should hear oil and fuel gurgling as it pours into the cylinder. Do your best to soak up the mess with blue shop towels (twist a couple blue shop towels together for this). With the shop towels in the injector hole, you can turn the engine over a few times by hand via a 24mm socket on the front crank bolt. Be careful (go slow) when doing this, as it is quite possible to launch the shop towels and a bunch oil/fuel out of the hole. Don’t ask how I know!

    7.) Remove the other Three: With the rear injector removed, you can now go ahead and remove the three forward ones in the same manner. If you wish, you can place rags in the holes to soak up excess oil and turn the engine over by hand a few times. However, this is not absolutely necessary, as the oil/fuel will be cleared in a later step. Also, since they’re all out, now is a good time to make sure all of the injector holes are clear of debris and that the copper washer came out with the injector.

    8.) Remove the Glow Plugs: With the injectors still out, remove all four glow plugs with a 10mm deep socket.

    9.) Install Your New Injectors: Liberally coat the new injector (especially around the o-rings) with clean engine oil and carefully place it in the hole. Once in the hole, give the top of the injector a few sharp blows with your hand to seat it. Then, motivate it the rest of the way into the hole with a rubber mallet. Don’t hit it crazy hard! Just give it a few hits until the collar slides over the upper retaining bolt. Repeat this process with the other three injectors.

    10.) Bolt Them Down: Insert the lower retaining bolt back into it’s hole and torque to 120 in/lb with an 8mm socket. Then replace the oil spouts, and tighten the 5mm allen bolt until snug.

    11.) Replace the VC Cover: Replace the valve cover gasket, and plug the injectors back in being sure to secure the metal clip. The glow plugs are still out so you can’t plug those in, and be sure to leave the valve cover harness unplugged. Replace the valve cover, holding it on with only a couple bolts.

    12.) Repeat Steps 2 – 11 on the Passenger Side.

    13.) Bump Start: Now it’s time to purge any excess fuel/oil from the cylinders (remember that all of the glow plugs are out). Find the starter solenoid on the passenger side fender. Remove the little rubber cap and short the two large contacts together. You should run the engine through two 20 second cranking cycles. Give the starter a little break between cranks so that it doesn’t get too hot. After a couple cycles, all excess fuel/oil should have been purged through the glow plug ports!

    14.) Install Glow Plugs: Remove the valve covers and reinstall the glow plugs. Now is a great time to switch to brand new glow plugs. If you do so, be sure to only use Motorcraft ZD-11 glow plugs made by Beru. Using a 10mm deep socket, torque each glow plug to 168 in/lb. Plug them in.

    15.) Replace Valve Covers: Reinstall the valve covers. Use a 13mm socket to torque each bolt to 96 in/lb.

    16.) Plug the main wire harness back in and reinstall all of the plumbing, etc. that you removed in step one.

    17.) Get Ready to Start: With the valve cover harnesses still unplugged, crank the engine via the key for 20-30 seconds to help build back oil pressure. If you would prefer to crank on the engine for only a few seconds, open the top of the HPOP reservoir and fill it with engine oil. Prior to this, it is not a bad idea to cycle the key a few times to get fuel pressure back up too. Let the starter rest for 5 minutes after the long crank;

    18.) Start It Up: Plug the valve cover harnesses back in. Now you’re ready to go for it! Give it about a 15 second crank. It may start, and it may not. If not, let the starter rest a couple minutes and then try again. You can here the injectors start clicking right before the engine fires.

    19.) Work the Air Out: After getting your truck started, it’s not a bad idea to let it idle for a few minutes to make sure that everything is working normally. The truck may produce some white smoke at first and idle a bit rough. There is air in the system that needs to be worked out. The best way to do this is to drive the truck. The harder you drive it, the quicker the air issue will go away. Also, you may see some engine oil dribbling out of you exhaust. Remember that oil was blown through the exhaust valve in the cylinder when we purged them of oil/fuel earlier.

    20.) Enjoy your new injectors!!!
    Last edited by hotstik; 03-20-2006 at 03:10 PM.
    2000 F250 7.3L 4x4
    2003 F250 7.3L 4x4

    DP-Tuner
    Empire Diesel
    Strictly Diesel
    John Wood Automotive
    One Up Offroad
    Swamps Diesel

  2. #2
    SoCAPS Member ryanPSD's Avatar
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    Great writeup dude...


    I may need this in the near future for... shall we say, upgrades :evil: :smokin:
    - Ryan

    BULLETPROOF 7.3 PSD 1996 F-250 Flatbed 4x4
    bdp chip & injectors, SBC Con OFE, 2002 SD HPOP
    2004 Rage'n 2124C toy hauler
    2007 Yamaha Rhino 660 long travel :evil:

  3. #3
    Event Coordinator Samuel1941's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Great write up!
    Thanks!


    2012 F350 PSD Lariet SuperCab 2X2, long bed, TriPlatinum White, all the extras
    (Bobby Williams Sale...Sunrise Ford Fontana Great Deal...Thanks)

    (Traded In) 2005 F350 PSD Lariet Supercab Duallie, auto, 4.10, all the extras. (Bobby Williams Sale) Anti-Gremlin Bell hanging off front suspension, Putco Boss 4" S/S nerf bars, Velvet Ride shackles, Bull Ring tie downs, C-Btr Mirrors, muffler delete, aftermarket intake elbow.

    (Sold) 2000 F350 PSD XLT Supercab Duallie

  4. #4
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    E-350 Injector removal

    Is there enuff clearence in the E 350 to remove and install injectors or must the engine be dropped? thanks - Marty

  5. #5
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    nice write up man ill be doing this soon!
    1999 Ford F-250 7.3L PSD 4x4 EC/SB with 4 inch lift, Goodyear wangler MT/R LT285/75R16 on stock alloy alcoa's, 4inch turbo back, K&N cold air intake system, Blacked out grill with smoked tail light, H.I.D's, alpine system with amp/sub and some other stuff.. Waiting on Glowshift 3in1 and T500 from terminator Eng also trying to figure out who's chip to with...

  6. #6
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    Wish I had read this post BEFORE I started the job !!

    Great post on the how to replace the fuel injector I am doing #8 and I didn't clean out the injector hole and hydro locked it so then I found your post and re did the whole proceedure and it fired up pretty quick . So I take a test drive it sounds pretty good and was snappy at low speeds but when I got on it it smoked (blue) like the ****ens and had no power . I figured that the injector wasn't seated all the way and letting oil by the seals so I am in my shop redoing the whole install over again . Now I cleaned it out and reinstalled the injector and it locked again so I pulled it out and tryed turnig it over with out injector and glow plug and it is still acting like its still hydro locked ,I did see that the copper washer from the new injector was laying on its side and bent . Now I look in the hole and it looks like another washer is at the bottom of the hole , but there is one stuck on the old injector is there another washer in there do you think ? I need help I am in my shop now and its my only driver . If you want to e mail its lfmw2945@sbcglobal.net
    Thanks Brady

  7. #7
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    Other tools to have handy

    First, thanks for posting this, :peace:
    I have a couple of tools that I'd like to recommend, made my injector job much easier:

    Remote starter switch (from Summit Racing)
    Needlenose pliers
    Mirror on an extension (to see into the back injector holes)
    vacuum bottle (I rigged one up using a gatorade bottle and a wet/dry vac, hard plastic line for the pickup tube) for removing oil from cylinders before doing the bump/blowout method
    Q-tip taped to dental tool or screwdriver to clean out the injector seats

    Thanks again!
    p.s. it's an '03 Ex, I'll fix my sig in a minute.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jeepheaddotcom; 09-08-2011 at 06:00 PM. Reason: Added pictures

  8. #8
    SoCAPS Member
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    Thank you for the great article

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by motorcyclemarty View Post
    Is there enuff clearence in the E 350 to remove and install injectors or must the engine be dropped? thanks - Marty
    Yes there is on the right side I believe #3 you have to dent the firewall in a little and remove both 8 mm bolts and the injector pops right out!

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