How hard will it be to do my studs during my egr swap? I got everything out for my egr and oil cooler swap and am ready to start putting it back together. How much more work is it to do the studs now that I am here?
How hard will it be to do my studs during my egr swap? I got everything out for my egr and oil cooler swap and am ready to start putting it back together. How much more work is it to do the studs now that I am here?
If you have a 6.0, it all depends on how much time you have. The studs are not easy to get in there with the motor still in the truck, you will have to pull the motor or lift the cab, its the easy way to do it.
A typical egr cooler replacement out of the book is around 8hrs, the head gaskets are around 25hrs... So its a whole lot more work. Also its almost impossible to do with the cab on. I know there are guys who have done it, but its certainly not easy.
This is what it will look like
6 0L Ford Power Stroke Engine Head Bolt Problem Photo 1
2 stroker
__________________
06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge Insight CTS Expandable Pyro,
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
Sinister Fuel Pressure Adapter
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
Delo ELC coolant
Tow Command
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A piller EGT,Boost,Trans
After double checking my egr cooler it turns out it is not bad. So I ordered my studs and gaskets today. I am going to try and do them without pulling the cab. worst case I can lift it up a few inches. Im kind of glad they are bad cause it forces me to stud the motor instead of waiting till later.
If you are going to do the egr and oil coolers you need to do a flush before you start to clean the system to remove the silicate build up or you will be in the same shape later then go back with ELC coolant here is the flush i did, i used 48 gallons of distilled water 1/4 tank of fuel 12.5hrs of my time but my system is clean.
This should help you understand the reason to ditch the Gold junk it can't take the heat. Gauges are a must to do this need to know EOT-ECT
Replaced oil cooler still difference in temps - Page 21 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Flushing and cleaning the 6.0
Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.
To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.
Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.
Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.
Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean
Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.
After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.
Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.
new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169
Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
2 stroker
__________________
06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge Insight CTS Expandable Pyro,
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
Sinister Fuel Pressure Adapter
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
Delo ELC coolant
Tow Command
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A piller EGT,Boost,Trans
Is the passenger head the more difficult of the two to do? It looked much harder to do the passenger so that's the head I worked on first. Got that side pulled last night fairly easily without touching the cab. I pulled the inner fender and it was rather simple. I am going to pull the drivers head tonight and the studs should be here tomorow so I can start to put it all together.
Keep us post i know someone that just lost the heads coolant leaking into the oil.
__________________
06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge Insight CTS Expandable Pyro,
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
Sinister Fuel Pressure Adapter
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
Delo ELC coolant
Tow Command
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A piller EGT,Boost,Trans
Its the back bolt on the driver's side that is the tough one!!
I have never done it but i thought it was the one on the passenger side because of all the AC stuff may be wrong not the first time.
__________________
06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge Insight CTS Expandable Pyro,
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
Sinister Fuel Pressure Adapter
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
Delo ELC coolant
Tow Command
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A piller EGT,Boost,Trans
Not too bad on passenger side because you can remove the inner fender and AC box. On the driver's side you're dealing with a long bolt and a steel firewall, nothing to remove although you can ding the firewall and get enough clearance if you're willing to go that way.
Today was a good day, i learned something, Thanks
__________________
06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge Insight CTS Expandable Pyro,
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
Sinister Fuel Pressure Adapter
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
Delo ELC coolant
Tow Command
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A piller EGT,Boost,Trans
I got both heads off and cleaned up without removing the header box or touching the firewall. Did both by myself with a cherry picker with not too much hassle. Hope it goes in the same way. What's the best way to prep the block and head surfaces. I usually do the air angle grinder with a scotch brite head. I heard not to touch them but want to get the old gasket material 100% off.
On cat stuff we used a gasket scrapper the edge is real hard and what HG's are you going back with they say the Ford HG's are the best the black onyx (Victor Reinz) head gaskets are not holding up.
2 stroker
__________________
06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
Edge Insight CTS Expandable Pyro,
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
Sinister Fuel Pressure Adapter
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
Delo ELC coolant
Tow Command
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A piller EGT,Boost,Trans
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