Turn the ignition key and click click clickity clickity click! Might U know WHY?

[socalocman03]

Hows it goin fellas?

I have a bit of problem which has me stumped. For the past week or so my 06 F550 PS XLT has been a little drained electrically speaking. First start in the morning is a crap shoot, been a few mornings she just barely cranks hard enough to get the engine turned over then other days it cranks like nobodies watcin and fires right. I tested my batts with a volt meter and get over 13 vdc from both while the engine is off and over 14 vdc with the truck started. I took it to a shop and had them test the batts and even under load they checked good so said the store clerk anyway.

Tonight after my oil/ tran fluid and filter change it started right up, cranked nice and hard. I let it run for a min or two to get oil into the filters shut it down, checked the oil level and when I went to start it a few mins later she acted like the batts were dead, barely enough juice to get it to click click click. No warning lights ie batt idiot lite and the instrument cluster is illuminated nice and bright even though it's as if the batts are completely dead. I put the volt meter on the batts while being in this dead state and they both show over 13 friggen vdc. The cables are nice and tight, even checked the pos cable on the starter and all looks good. I put the batt charger on it and it started right up once it had that little boost of power. Can the batts be bad even though they checked out good on the tester? Could it be my starter? The click click sound is the exact sound a vehicle makes when the batts are dead, it's not the click click sound you hear when the solenoid on the starter is sticking but that doesn't mean the starter isn't going out. I'm confused boys and girls. Any help or thoughts as to what the problem could be is greatly appreciated for sure.

thanks Les

[Samuel1941]

Only thought I have is, did you check the batteries separately? I mean like disconnect the cables and check each without being connected to each other.

If they are connect together and one is dead or has a short, they may test OK with the good battery carrying the load.

Just a thought.

If the batteries are both good, then the problem is most likely cables.
Clean all connectors and be sure you have a good ground!

An other way to check the batteries is to turn your headlights on before you crank and see what they do while you're cranking. If they go off or extremely dim, you aren't getting enough power. If they just dim a little and come right back, then perhaps it's a starter problem.

[SteveBricks]

Adding to what Samuel suggested, I would remove the batteries for the load test to be certain it's done properly. Static voltage doesn't really give an indication of a battery's health. If those are your originals they're probably done for after 5 years.

[socalocman03]

The isolating the batts while testing makes sense and I actually mentioned that to the store clerk there at O'Reilly's and was told it didn't matter. I suppose at that point I should have just shut my hood and been on my way. I will pull them out of the truck and have them tested separately just to ensure I'm working with 2 serviceable batteries then I can move onto the next probable cause.

I did leave out some pertinent information that may be of some use in someone helping me figure this out. The following are Aftermarket products I've installed which affect the trucks electrical (but have been on the truck for over 2 years without issue) system are:

HID Headlights
LED Courtesy Lights in rear Box
LED Brake, Turn & Marker Lights
2000# Hyd Inter-lift Lift Gate
Pioneer Avic CD/DVD Head Deck
Kicker 600w and 350W Amps
2 JL Audio 10" Subs
4 Polk Audio DB 5x7's

This is a work truck and has the hazards going as well as a construction beacon with the truck not running about 2 or 3 hours out of a day, starting the truck from time to time letting it Fast Idle for 10 or so minutes to keep batts from dieing. I know having the LEDS draw very little power so should be able to run them all day without having to start the truck but the emergency beacon is just a standard bulb with a small electric motor rotating a reflector.

The batteries were replaced about 1 1/2 years ago and the alternator (110 amp) was replaced about 2 years ago.

With the added information maybe someone can shed some light for me.

Off to go pull the batts to have them tested individually.

thanks ev1 for the help

[socalocman03]

Here's an update.....I just went out this morning and prior to attempting to start the truck I disconnected the batts and checked them individually with a volt meter, one was 12.53 the other was 12.07. I hooked the batteries back into the electrical system and with the volt meter still connected I turned the ignition key to on without going to start position. Watching the digital readout on the volt meter as soon as the ignition is in the hot position the volt meter immediately drops to around 7 volts and watching the meter without starting the truck it steadily climbs back up to high 11's low 12's but when it stopped climbing I turned the ignition to start position and I got the good ol' click click click as if the batts are completely dead.

WTH is going on here?? I am fairly mechanically inclined and can take care of most all automobile problems but I have to admit electrical is a real challenge for this boy.

[sanger]

I would say you found your problem voltage drops to 7 volts, Bad batteries.

[socalocman03]

what causes them to read 12 vdc in a static position but as soon as ya turn the ignition to on the drop to 7 volts? And wonder why the guy at the auto parts store says there good batts other than he's not sure how to use the test equipment? Can I insist they replace them under the battery warranty even if they say the batteries are good? Guess we'll find out here in a bit when I go there to have them replaced.....

Thanks for the help

[Samuel1941]

The drop when you first turn on the key is due to the glow plugs...they take a lot of power. I don't know the the voltage number the glow plugs will cause, but 7 volts seems a bit low?? (The glow plugs will stay on for about 1-2 minutes whether you start the truck or not. At night after you start your truck with your headlights on, let it idle and you will see the lights get a bit brighter when the glow plugs turn off.)

I would still check for a good ground connection. A dirty or corroded connection could cause the symptoms you have. With "new" batteries, they may not be the problem...and, it is possible that one is bad and when connected together is draining the other one. The "bad" battery may show good when you first test it because it is getting a surface charge from the good battery, but then quickly goes dead.

Our trucks have two batteries because it takes a lot of power to run the glow plugs and then turn over the high compression engine.

[socalocman03]

Just wanted to give a BIG THANKS to all who responded to my little dilemma and to give the conclusion to the story. Took the truck (and Batts) back to O'reilly's Auto Parts pulled the Batts from the truck, they load tested them said they were good batteries????? I insisted they weren't good since they didn't hold a charge over night and with a bit o coaxing they warrantied them for me with 2 free replacements. I just hope I don't have some underlying electrical problem that is the root of the batteries draining, I guess only time will tell.

I'm Out........

[Samuel1941]

Good for you getting the batteries replaced!!
Now the next few days will tell if that was the problem, or not.
I hope all is well now!!
If not, at least we'll know it's not the batteries!! :blush:

[socalocman03]

The ol' tried n true process of elimination trouble shooting, gotta love it! :peace: Thanks again, will post in a few days with an update or possibly sooner with more questions if the dead batteries end up being a symptom of rather than being the problem.

[socalocman03]

Just an update on the battery situation.....Been about a week since replacing the batteries and up to this point all is good, cranks good and strong each and every time I turn the ignition key. Just don't get how the parts store can test the batts as being good serviceable batteries when in fact they were not?? The things that make ya go Hmmmmm!!!

Thanks again to all that helped, I truly appreciate the wealth of knowledge available within this as well as many other forums.

I'm out.............Les

[eboteilho]

Glad you got it all sorted out! Usually I worry about them telling me a part is bad just to make the sale! I bought a Deltran Battery Tender and so far it's worked well for me. I can really tell it works after I've let my truck sit, plugged in, for a few days. When I turn the key she jumps to life. Good cheap insurance!