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Thread: coolent

  1. #1
    SoCAPS Member armyenterprise's Avatar
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    01/11/2011
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    coolent

    So what is the coolent should u use and what is the mixure ratio

  2. #2
    SoCAPS Member F350MudBogger's Avatar
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    10/08/2005
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    Oreily Auto parts can Get you Fleet Charge non silicate formula ELC coolant or this low silicate coolant
    Part # FLEET50/50 Low silicate $10.99 OR FLEET CHARGE non silicate 50/50 $12.99 you have to order it but it takes a few hours or less than a day, It way better than that sand filled ford coolant!

    2008 BMW 750Li Titanium Silver Metallic over Black Leather
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    2001 Honda XR650L

    2009 Ford F250 Lariat 4x4 LB CC (Sold was a bad apple)
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  3. #3
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    I'm a little late but here you go.
    This should help you understand the reason to ditch the Gold junk it can't take the heat. Gauges are a must to do this need to know EOT-ECT
    http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0-motor-problems/149749-replaced-oil-cooler-still-difference-temps-21.html#post2063212

    Flushing and cleaning the 6.0


    Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

    To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one. You can skip the block drains if you want except for the final drain before adding fresh coolant. You will just have to flush a few more times to get the block clear.

    I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

    Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

    Fill the cooling system with tap water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

    Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with tap water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* for these products to work on both products. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times.

    Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with tap water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water if you are draining the block or 5 times if not. This is to replace any tap water in the cooling system with distilled water and very important.

    After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

    Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

    new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

    Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
    http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/product_lit/emea_brochures/LI33024-GB.pdf
    2 stroker
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    Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
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  4. #4
    SoCAPS Member armyenterprise's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the advise could not find the restore but I used on by cat I also used there coolent 50/50 doc seams to be working good I still think I need to replace the oil cooler and egr cooler cause sometime there is a 10 to 15 degree difference between dot and ect

  5. #5
    SoCAPS Member
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    You should be able to get the Restore here but Cummins the BIG BOX PARTS store should have it. Ryder
    Now if you have a 10-15* spread i would do this. Drop the coolant pull the t/stat flush 5 min with distilled water then add 3/4 gallon Restore place cardboard in front of radiator must get temp to 185*+ before it will work drive 60 to 90 min i took mine out of OD to get the RPMs up and the temp running about 3300rpm then just before you get back stop pull the cardboard this will help to drop the temp then drain pull bottom hose and drivers side block plug then flush 5 times with distilled water tell clean then see what the temps are when you replace your t/stat and you can use this Valvoline.com > Products > Zerex > Antifreeze Zerex > Zerex® Extended Life Antifreeze / Coolant but it should be concentrate to get the right mix when you add 3 1/2 gallons to the distilled water in the block, but if you are going to pull the coolers any way i would still do the flush i like a clean block hope this helps
    2 stroker
    __________________
    06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
    Edge Insight CTS Expandable Pyro,
    AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
    Sinister Fuel Pressure Adapter
    Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
    HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
    Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
    Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
    Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
    Delo ELC coolant
    Tow Command
    Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
    97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
    PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
    3" dp-4" exhaust
    TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
    Tymar Intake
    A piller EGT,Boost,Trans

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