DIY EGR Cooler replacement. Is it possible?!?

[Desert_Dutchman]

Looking at a huge b ill for the dealer to replace my cooler with another factory cooler that will fail. I've heard $4-5k for the labor and parts at the dealer.....that's over a months salary BEFORE taxes for me......
Looking at replacing it with a BulletProof cooler, and just parts are $1000 until I get the core charge back for mine.
I've replaced intake manifolds on Chevys, Dodge and Fords, done CAM swaps and suspensions/brakes. Is there an online resource for what's needed to do this job and do you think it's a driveway fix??
I still have 19 payments....how the hell can I fix my truck? I have a mortgage and a kid in college,,,,,

[BillD]

Found this on the diesel stop.
I am in the process now of doing my oil cooler, about half way there. They have instalation instructions for the kit that will help with removing most of the items needed for an oil cooler. Also I found the following instruction on this forum. Hope this helps.

Getting started
Drain the coolant out of the Radiator, and disconnect the batteries. Then start taking things apart, First remove the front part of the air intake, then the intercooler lines (7/16 deep well socket). Then removed the Degas bottle (10mm socket) after it was out of the way you can get to the 2 bolts that hold the air intake elbow on the turbo in place (8mm socket). Then use a 1/2” drive ratchet in the tensioner pulley to remove the belt, once removed unplug and remove the alternator (13mm socket and 10mm socket).

After that, either drain the oil or I believe you can just loosen the cap on the oil filter and it will let the oil drain out of the housing. Then take the fuel lines off (11/16 wrench and I used a crescent wrench for the main supply lines) and remove the oil filter/ fuel filter housing. (Either a #40 or 45 hex head socket). Then remove the clamps on both side of the turbo (deep well 7/16 socket) the exhaust manifolds Y pipe clamp on the turbo can be a real pain in the butt!! Just try and stay patient and keep messing with it and it will break loose. Note: if you have aftermarket exhaust it would be easier to completely remove the down pipe. Once the clamps are removed take the 2 bolts out of the oil supply line on top of the turbo (10mm wrench) then take the 3 bolts out of the turbo (10mm socket). There are 2 on the front and one on the back of the turbo, it is on the driver’s side of the turbo and I found it easier to get with a ¼” ratchet reaching around the back of the turbo from the down pipe side. Then its time to remove the turbo, use a pry bar and wiggle it free from the mount. You have to hold your teeth just right and say the perfect combination of 4 letter words but it will wiggle free eventually. Once the turbo is removed take the 4 bolts out of the turbo mount (10mm socket) and remove the mount and turbo oil drain tube.

Now it is time to remove the intake, take the 2 bolts out of the egr cooler at the front of the intake (deep well 10mm socket) and remove the clamp that holds the egr cooler to the up pipe. I just cut the small blue/orange hose that connects the egr cooler to the oilcooler with a knife. Then loosen all the bolts on top of the intake (10mm socket and wrench) try and keep up with were the bolts that have extra threads sticking up to hold down elec. connections. Note: on the far back right intake bolt there is what I assume to be a ground wire that is held down with a 10mm nut make sure you remember to reinstall it on assembly. There are also 2 bolt the hold the fan shroud to the intake that need to be removed (deep well 15mm socket) and one bolt and clamp holding a fuel line (10mm socket). Remove the intake you might have to tap the Egr cooler out of the bottom of the intake with a hammer. Make sure as you are sliding the intake out that its not caught on any wires or the intake gasket O-rings.

[weweld]

That is pretty good directions just take your time and carefully lay out all the parts as you take them off.

[Desert_Dutchman]

Tell us how it went...I'm not sure I can do this, and it'll take 3-4 months to save up to get someone to do it...unless theres someone who could help me out...

[Newman]

Tell us how it went...I'm not sure I can do this, and it'll take 3-4 months to save up to get someone to do it...unless theres someone who could help me out...

Its not that hard. Just keep the bolts seperated and take your time. Plan on a whole weekend to finish the job.

[Desert_Dutchman]

Talked to Ford, they said they needed a diagnosis and then they would talk to me about the "Powerstroke Program"? Anyone know what that means? I explained I was 1606 miles out of warranty.....told them there would be no way I could pay a LOt right now for a fix. nEVER BEEN LATE ON A PAYMENT, NEVER HAD A SINGLE SERVICE ISSUE, KEPT A LOG OF FILTER AND OIL CHANGES....told them the truck has run perfect since day one accept for WARRANTY instrument cluster...they told me I could defer two payments, I still have 28 payment left...62% paid off.+ years, never wanted to....wish they could just put me in a newer truck and put $5k on top, payoff the $18k I owe and call it good...I'd hate to lose this truck, since /I have it just the way I want it...why can't a federLLY MANDATED EMISSION PART HAVE A LONGER WARRANTY? iF i COULD LEGlly pull the damn EGR, I would, but smog makes it mandatory....I can afford maybe another $75-100 a month right or $800, but that cuts into my retirement savings...

[Desertstroker]

Talk to Loren at Diesel Tech. He will hook you up with a new oil cooler and EGR from Neal Technologies.

[Desert_Dutchman]

Imagine what a 150 mile tow would run to get it there....

[K5Cruiser]

Imagine what a 150 mile tow would run to get it there....

FREE if you're a AAA Premier card holder. If not, it'll be $103 to join AAA as a Premier member.

[Desert_Dutchman]

$2231 and factory parts.....I think I can do it myself.....Is $800 the best price I can get for the Neal cooler and oil cooler and all gaskets/o-rings from their website.....honestly, worried I'll screw someting else up, but I can't afford the fix and the nagging worry the problematic stock part will fail when least expected.
SOme of you guys know I'm paying my sons way through college at CAL, but I can't swing the dealers cost. I've seen partial instructions, but I need a really good full set of instructions. WHere can I find these??
THe other option is....would Ford pay off my loan and get me into a new 2010(6.4 is fine as I'm not trying to get over on anyone, sure, a 6.7 would be GREAT, but I need help, not expecting a miracle!!) at the same terms as my current loan? If they had to partially pay off the $18k I have left, and put say $5k onto the new loan....I could see that, if I could just stay with the terms I have now and have a sub $725 loan payment.....

[Desert_Dutchman]

http://fleetservicenorthwest.com/Doc...manual1_04.pdf

[Newman]

http://fleetservicenorthwest.com/Doc...manual1_04.pdf

Get the condensor mounted one and you should get a IPR rebuild kit cause you will probably need it. If not they are good at taking parts back and refunding money!

[Desert_Dutchman]

SO IPR rebuild
new serpentine belt
new thermostat
WHat else, since I will most likely be stuck with this 6.o.... How much more work would be involved with head studs since I'd be down to that point...

[Newman]

SO IPR rebuild
new serpentine belt
new thermostat
WHat else, since I will most likely be stuck with this 6.o.... How much more work would be involved with head studs since I'd be down to that point...

You act like you don't like your truck. Why put money into something you don't enjoy?
Your about half way to studs...

[Desert_Dutchman]

DONE!!!!
Thanks to my buddy's Dave and Tom, I got the BluWayl back on the road. If anYONE needs them, I have a PDF of the IH repair manual for oil cooler rebuild AND EGR Cooler R&R.
Did it in the daRK MOSTLY, AND A TORQUE WRENCH IS A MUST!!! Not an expert, but had it not been for the heat shields, the swap would have gone a LOT faster.....tiny hands I AIN'T got, and they are helpful.....my wife ROCKS!!