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Thread: Want to buy a 1997 Diesel 4 x 4

  1. #1
    Stranger
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    Want to buy a 1997 Diesel 4 x 4

    Hi Everyone...I am new at this and need help finding a good used truck....I am looking to tow a 2 horse trailor and want a dependable vehicle...I love the older diesels and need a 4 wheel drive due to the snow...Prefer lower mileage if possible....
    Karen

  2. #2
    SoCAPS Member fordmedic's Avatar
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    10/29/2004
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    First Welcome to SOCAPS!!!! you have a bit of homework.
    Re: '97 F250, what to look for?

    Buying Used Power Stroke Diesels

    Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel
    Turbo:

    You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

    Airbox:

    Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

    Tranny:

    If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

    Rear Gear Ratio:

    4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

    Coolant:

    Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

    Front end:

    Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

    Oil:

    The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

    Aftermarket stuff:

    Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

    Glow Plugs/Relay:

    Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...1&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

    Injector o-rings:

    The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

    Leaks and Drips:

    You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

    VIN number:

    If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

    courtesy of steve baz " godfather of diesels"
    RIP Muley 9-25-09
    You're ridin with the best now!




    1996 F-350 psd drw,crew cab, declawed, demuffed,fumotoed, a post triple pillar gauges,edge evo, home-made intake, line-x (10-17-05) On-board air with loud horns. IDM MOD by matty, SOCAPS member (6-11-07) (8-21-06)coolant eye (12/28/07) Stancor gpr (12/26/07), Coolent filter (11-1-2008) Trani by JOHN WOOD, Relocated Block heater plug (1/1/2011) . more mods to come

  3. #3
    SoCAPS Member 2005F250's Avatar
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    05/06/2008
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    Airbox! Check the air box. I didn't and mine was packed full of dirt.
    Adam

    02 F250 cc/sb 7.3L 2wd

    02 F350 sc/lb 7.3L 4wd

  4. #4
    SoCAPS Member
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    03/19/2003
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    47
    Karen,

    Buy a 1999, there's a huge difference in power and ride of a 1997 and the 1999-2003 7.3PSDs
    2000 F 250 CC SB 4x4, Weld Wheels, 35" BFG AT's, Line X, Rancho Lift, Diablo Chip, Alpine MP3 Player, Leer Shell.
    1993 F 350 SC LB 4x4, Eagle Wheels, 35" BFG AT's, Line X

    Fishing Hunting and Truck Pics

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